Intro:

     African soft furred rats are not for everyone, but they can do well for the right fit! One of the things I love about them is that they are one of the few exceptions of critters that can be co housed with another species, being mice. Male mice typically have to be housed separately due to them being aggressive toward other male mice unless in a breeding colony. Female ASFs can be introduced to male mice at a young age to provide companionship without the risk of breeding. They have very similar care to mice as well!

Housing:

     ASFs have to be housed in chew proof enclosures as they are very destructive. They also have to have 1/4" bar spacing. I'll link some good options below!

- Tanks 10+ gal. - prices vary - fits 3+ ASFs depending on the size of the tank
- Prevue Cage - $66 - fits 3-6 ASFs
- Favola Cage - $75 - fits 3-6 ASFs
- Midwest Cage - $80 - fits 3-6 ASFs
- Oiibo Cage - $200 - fits 3-6 ASFs

Diet:

     ASFs do best with a balanced block for their main diet. Below I will list some of the suitable options for them. This is not a complete list, but some of the more commonly found blocks. If you find other foods that you aren't sure about or feel would work, please send me a link so I can check over the nutritional values! I offer 1-2 8oz. water bottles per cage depending on the size of the enclosure.

Suitable:
- Mazuri Rat and Mouse Food (found in most pet store and online)
- Kalmbach 18% 
- Sunseed Vita Prima
- Science Selective

Not Suitable:
- Mixes that include seeds and fillers (Kaytee, Vitakraft, Tropical Carnival, etc. These are not nutritionally balanced)

Treats:
     Giving occasional treats can help encourage trust as well as foraging if they are scattered around. I will list some good options for this!

- Old Fashioned Oats: I like to toss them around the cages in the bedding so they can dig and forage for them.
- Gerber Puffs: these are great low sugar options, and they can be bought fairly cheap for a container that'll last forever with these little guys!
- Yogis: These are higher in sugar, so I recommend giving them sparingly.
- Unsalted seeds and nuts: These should be given sparingly as well due to them being higher in fat
- Some fresh items to give are dandelion flowers and leaves (if picking them ensure they've not been treated by any chemicals), kale, apples, carrots, peas, eggs, and mealworms (dried or live). They can pretty much have the same fresh foods rats and mice are able to eat. ​

Bedding:

     ASFs love to nest and burrow like mice, so I encourage offering ample bedding and nesting materials. Below are my suggestions! This is not a complete list, so if you find another option, feel free to send me a link to make sure it's safe to use!

Suitable:
- Wood Shavings: Pine, aspen, and poplar are good options. You may have to shop around with different brands to see which ones are least dusty. I personally use poplar bedding, but it's pretty hard to come by. 
- Paper Bedding: Carefresh, Kaytee, Frisco, and Oxbow are good options. Be sure to avoid dyed and scented options, as well as ones that include baking soda. They cannot consume baking soda, so it can be a risk when they chew on the bedding.
- Paper Pellets: Equine pine pellets, Vitakraft Fresh World Pellets (non-scented version), Yesterday's News (non-scented version), and Sunseed Bedding (non-scented/baking soda free)

Not Suitable:
- Cedar Wood Shavings
- Scented or dyed paper/bedding
- Includes baking soda (harmful for them to ingest)
- Clay based bedding 
- Dust baths 

Nesting Materials:
- Newspaper (not the glossy/waxy kind)
- Crinkle paper (typically used as gift filling)
- Packing paper
- Scrap fabric
- Cardboard
- PomPoms (not the shiny /tinsel ones)
- Timothy/Oat Hay

**Avoid stringy material like stuffing or fluff. The threads can get caught around their limbs easily and cause damage or death. 

Enrichment:

     ASFs are super active and love to explore! They benefit from multiple enriching items. I will list some of the ones I use and recommend as well as ones that may cause harm. This is not a complete list, so if you find items not listed here, feel free to send me a link or picture to ask if it is safe or not.

Suitable:
- Exercise Wheels/Saucers: I prefer to use wheels and recommend the Kaytee Comfort Wheel 8.5" (solid plastic), Kaytee Silent Spinner 6.5", and the Ware Saucer (Medium).
- Wooden Chews: Most wooden chews for small animals and birds are suitable. If you're not sure about one, send me a picture!
- Hammocks: These can be as simple as cutting fleece into small squares/rectangles, making/sewing your own, or I do also have an Etsy shop where I offer all kinds of hammocks and beds!
- Houses/Hides: I like to have a few "indestructible" hides (usually plastic or ceramic) as well as some ones they can destroy (cardboard boxes, drink carriers, popsicle stick houses - fun to make!). 
​
Not Suitable:
- Exercise Balls: these are harmful for all animals. Their limbs can easily get caught in the slits as they walk/run in them, they provide little air flow/ventilation, and most rodents have poor eyesight, relying more on touch an smell. Being in a ball severely limits these senses, causing them to panic and continuously run to try to find a way out. This causes unnecessary stress and a likely chance of physical harm. 
- Wire Wheels: there is a misconception that these cause bumblefoot, which isn't the case. However, I have personally experienced mice getting their toes/limbs caught in the grids, causing harm. I have also experienced mice breaking their spines when multiple are trying to run and get caught between the bars holding the wheel in place. So, I highly discourage using metal/mesh wheels. 
- Items with small holes: Some houses/hides, wheels, etc. have small holes big enough for a mouse/ASF to fit their head it, which they will attempt. However, it isn't big enough for their whole body to fit. This can cause them to get stuck and harm themselves. Just be mindful of the items you are purchasing. 
- Chew toys/treats held together by honey or molasses. These items are too sugary for them to have unlimited access to. 

Social Needs:

     ASFs are social critters, but they do bond closely. They can be introduced to a male mouse or other ASFs while they're young, but once they reach maturity, they become aggressive toward any new cage mates. This makes it very difficult to add anyone new, so ensure you are getting the amount you'd like to have the first time around.
     Male ASFs can be housed in a pair or trio if they are raised together but cannot be introduced to each other later in life.
     Female ASFs do best in groups of three or more. They can also be introduced to a male fancy mouse to provide companionship without the risk of breeding. The male mouse can be any age during introductions, but the female ASFs need to be younger to accept in a new cage mate. If this is something you are interested in, I will do introductions before adoptions.

Personality/Handling:

     ASFs do tend to be a bit less handleable, but I do get quite a few that do pretty well! I don't have as much time to offer one on one handling/taming, so in a home with more time, I feel they could do well being picked up! ASFs haven't been worked with as long as mice and rats, so they are not as domesticated as those species. I work toward breeding those with natural sweeter/more tame temperaments in hopes of continuing that trend though. 
     When handling these guys, I recommend scooping them up over a secured area. That way, if they do end up jumping or hopping off, they're not able to escape or get far. It may help to use a bonding pouch to handle them as well so they feel more secure and are less likely to jump.
     These little guys are so curious and love to explore! I always enjoy watching them run around their enclosures, checking everything out, especially after a fresh cage cleaning. They love to nest and forage too!